I settle into my seat with a draught glass of Redor Pils from Brasserie Dupont, contemplating my lot, and the lot of pils in Brussels. This is a beer style (or at least a family of beers made using bottom-fermenting yeasts at low temperatures) that defined brewing in this city for half a century, but has since vanished along with the breweries that made it so dominant. As brewing undergoes a revival in the city, it is time for the new generation of Brussels breweries to do justice to the city’s beer history.

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